Radio Connections and Retrofitting
These are the connections required for interfacing between Heil Sound microphones and boomsets to popular transceivers.
The letters following our various adapter cables identify the particular cable with respect to your rig. For example, the AD-1-K and CC-1-K come wired for Kenwood; the AD-1-I and CC-1-I are wired for Icom, while the AD-1-Y and CC-1-Y are ready for connection to your 8-pin (round) Yaesu microphone inputs.
For more details on these adapters, please see our "Product Guide" section.
Check out the Heil Retrofit Visual Aid.
GM-4/5, HM-10, Classic 4/5, or Handi Mic 4/5 microphones to Yaesu FT-100/1500/1802/2800/7800/8800/8900:
AD-100 plus CC-1-Y.
PR 20/30/40/780/781, Heritage, Handi Mic Pro Plus to Yaesu FT-100/1500/1802/2800/7800/8800/8900:
AD-100 plus CC-1-XLR-Y.
Heil Boomsets (except Traveler) to Yaesu FT-100:
AD-100 plus AD-1-Y.
GM-4/5, HM-10, Classic 4/5, or Handi Mic 4/5 to most amateur radio transceivers with 8-pin round or modular microphone connectors:
CC-1
PR 20/30/40/780/781, Heritage, Handi Mic Pro Plus to most amateur radio transceivers with 8-pin round microphone connectors:
CC-1-XLR
PR 20/30/40/780/781, Heritage, Handi Mic Pro Plus to Yaesu FTdx9000's front panel XLR connector:
CC-1-XLR-XLR
Heil Boomsets to most amateur radio transceivers with 8-pin round or modular microphone connectors:
AD-1
Heil Traveler to most amateur transceivers with 8-pin round or modular connector, or HTs:
HSTA
Heil Traveler to Yaesu VX-170, VX-6R, and VX-7R:
Heil HSTA-iHT plus Yaesu CT-91 Adapter Cable
Icom IC-706/7000 connections to iCM Desk Microphone:
CC-1-I
Icom IC-706/7000 to Heil "iC" Element Boomsets (Pro Set iC, PSQP iC, Pro Set Plus iC, BM-5-iC, or BM-10-iC):
AD-1-iCM
HDAT (Headphone attenuator and 1/4" to 1/8" adapter)
Icom IC-706/7000 to Heil dynamic-element Boomsets (Pro Set 4/5, PSQP 4/5, Pro Set Plus, BM-5-4/5, BM-10-4/5):
AD-1-iM
HDAT (Headphone attenuator and 1/4" to 1/8" adapter)
Heil Traveler to Cell Phone:
HSTA-CELL
Heil Traveler to PC:
HSTA-PC
Heil iCM Desk Microphone to Cell Phone:
HSTA-CELL
Heil iCM Desk Microphone to PC:
HSTA-PC
Heil Handi Mic iC to PC:
HSTA-PC plus CC-1-I
The HEIL 'Key Elements' will fit in most any microphone. Being only .530 x .830 x .310, they can be mounted inside most housings. It is VERY important, however, that they be mounted on a baffle board - not just suspended in free air. The baffle board arrangement becomes an easy mounting surface and does not allow your voice to go past the element, hitting the back wall and reflecting back into the element, causing phase distortion and in some cases actual cancellation of the audio at certain frequencies, thus producing a 'hollow' or 'boxy' sound from the microphone (see below)
This baffle board can be easily made from the cardboard of a shoebox or printed circuit epoxy material. Cut the baffle to fit the inside board. When dry, using a very small low wattage soldering iron, solder small #24 gauge STRANDED - not solid wire to the two small solder points of the element. Punch a hole in the baffle board and exit those wires to the other side of the board. See the hand microphone drawing.
D-104 ASTATIC - The D 104 does not need a baffle board, as the internal metal back plate IS a baffle board. Simply cement the HEIL element right to that. It is usually best to cement a very thin piece of foam between the two to eliminate any vibrations that may carry through to the element. As with all of the microphone installations, it is also best to place a THIN, acoustically transparent, piece of foam in front of the element which serves as a windscreen 'breath blast' filter. Most microphones will already have some type of filter in them.
MC-50 KENWOOD - The Kenwood MC-50 is very simple to retrofit with a HEIL element. The big problem is getting it apart. The O.E.M. manufacturer uses lots of epoxy cement on the threads, thus making it almost impossible with the bare hands to unscrew the stainless steel 'head' or end cap. Heating that threaded area up with a hair dryer for about 60 seconds will liquefy the epoxy and the end cap will unscrew easily. You may want to wrap a towel around it as you probably will have to use a pair of pliers to unscrew and it WILL be hot. Cut a piece of stiff foam to put back into the area where the original cartridge was fit. Lay the HC on top and screw the end cap back in place.
ICOM SM SERIES - Same deal with this as the MC-50 - heat up the end. Unscrew the cap. Remove the electret element. Install a 0.47 µF capacitor in SERIES with the hot audio lead to block the +8 VDC. The HC element may NOT slide all the way in. The depth of the cavity varies with different production runs and O.E.M. manufacturers of that end cap. If the HC does not slide all the way in, simply place it in as far as possible and slip a foam windscreen over it. It will perform well and look fine.
